GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 2TROUBLESHOOTING TOOLS AND SAFETYTIPS AND TRICKSLets talk aluminum foil for a minute.
If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!5-1 BASIC OPERATIONThe old-style GE design uses a single-speed reversing motor, which is belted to the transmission.
When viewed from the top, the motor turns clockwise for the agitation cycle, and counterclockwise for the spin cycle (Figure GE-1.)A simple centrifugal clutch prevents the motor from taking heavy shock loads when starting. But even in an oven with natural convection, it can mess up airflow and cooking and even cause burners to malfunction. If you simply must line the bottom of your oven with foil, at least poke holes in it where there are holes in the oven floor. They're there for a reason.2-1 BASIC REPAIR AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS1) When working on gas cooking equipment, if you've disconnected a gas pipe to replace a valve or other component, always test the pipe joint for leaks when you reassemble it. You can do this by coating the joint with a solution of liquid soap and water and looking for bubbles. Apply it with a brush to make sure you coat the joint thoroughly, and use a mirror to look at the back side of the joint if necessary. There is less chance of chipping or scratching the finish.2) Inside the lid, on the top right side, is the recirculation nozzle. Your appliance parts dealer has gas leak testing solution, with a brush built into the cap, made specifically for this purpose. 2) Always de-energize (pull the plug or trip the breaker on) any oven that you're disassembling. If you need to re-energize the oven to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated. Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 3) If this manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!! There is a small inspection hole (figure GE-4) in the pump body that weeps water when the pump's internal seal is leaking. Without first reading the introductory overview, it's difficult to understand the later informaiton that is being presented here. You may not see any water directly, but you will see its tracks leading down the pump body.
See section 5-4 on pumps. 2) These washers are quite different from others in that the tub is attached to the cabinet, rather than the transmission.
There is a reason that it stopped - you can bet on it - and if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will fail again. They are shocked to realize that what they had been reading about (and studying photographs of) is also taking place right over their heads. What some people had dismissed as mere "jet plane exhaust" (because there are now scores of internet propaganda web sites trying to convince you that 'everything is well' and 'there's nothing to be alarmed about' and that unaccountable 'jet plane exhaust'A  plumes are magically being converted into horizon-to-horizon overcasts of "cirrus clouds"A !) are dismayed to realize that chemtrails are indeed the toxin-laden aerosols that have been described here and at other web sites since 1998 and they are not being sprayed for any benign or national security reason as the disinformation peddlers would have you believe.
Replace the part. 4) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component.
It can develop leaks, or even shake loose, causing a MASSIVE leak (during the fill cycle, the water dumps straight onto the floor instead of filling the tub).
Wear gloves, and be careful not to cut your hands! 6) If you have diagnosed a certain part to be bad, but you cannot figure out how to remove it, sometimes it helps to get the new part and examine it for mounting holes or other clues as to how it may be mounted. 7) When testing for a 110 volt power supply from a wall outlet, you can plug in a small appliance such as a shaver or blow dryer. Usually such holes will appear around the top of the tub.If you have holes worn in the tub, you can sometimes patch them with an epoxy patch kit, available at your appliance parts dealer. I had taken my 35 mm camera with me to the monthly meeting of the Orange County Chapter of the American Society of Dowsers and after the meeting, I had stopped off at a supermarket. It may prove to be a temporary repair, but you can always do it again, and it's cheaper than trashing the washer. After getting out of the car, I photographed for the very first time, the strange looking "contrails" that William Thomas had been describing on the Art Bell radio program a couple of weeks earlier. If you're testing for 220 volt power you need to use the VOM. 8) When splicing wires in an oven, remember that you're dealing with high temperatures. Thomas had dubbed them "chemtrails" on the Bell show to distinguish them from genuine (and rarely seen) short-lived ice crystal trailings properly identified as contrails. Your parts dealer has high-temp connections, porcelain wire nuts and fiberglass-insulated wire for this purpose. I want to impress upon you something really important. As of this writing, it is not yet widely available, but ask your dealer or call 800-936-5282. 4) The tub fittings may leak.
Although I had a number of articles about the NWO and their dark Machiavellian agendas posted at my web site, I was now witnessing (and breathing in) the stark reality of those depopulation plans. If you detect a leak from the tub drain or other tub fitting, remove the basket as described in section 5-6. 5) You may get a calcium or detergent buildup around the fill or recirculation nozzle. A  Chemtrail spraying seems to be heaviest and most constant over North America and most countries ofA  western Europe.
Some countries in Asia are being sprayed (Japan and Korea), but the greatest exception to any chemtrail activity whatsover is China. Replace it as described in section 5-4. If the machine is not pumping out water because the coupling has come off the pump, check the pump for jamming.
The Chinese are being spared completely because China is being groomed by the NWO to replace the United States as the leading nation of the world, both economically and militarily.
It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good.
Therefore, a locked transmission will not stop the motor from turning, but a locked pump will. 1) If NOTHING on the machine works, and it's not even making any noise, check the power supply.
In others, only the spin cycle is interlocked, and the machine will still fill and agitate with the lid raised. Check as described in section 2-5(a) and tighten or replace as described in section 5-10.3) Often a sock or something has jammed in the pump. If you want to hasten the demise of the chemtrail spraying program, please take the time to read about orgone generators, chembusters, and the use of your mind-with focused intent- to rid the sky of these poisons. You will also hear the motor trying to start, then tripping off by the motor overload switch, because it is being stalled by the pump. However, you don't want to badger them with too many questions, so know your basics before you start asking questions. Some parts houses may offer service, too. An additional confirmation of this diagnosis is that if you look at the pump coupling while the motor is trying to start, it will be twisted tightly. See section 5-4. 4) If the transmission pulley is turning, but either agitate or spin or both are not working, the transmission is bad. Replace as described in section 5-13. If the pump is turning, but the transmission drive pulley is not turning, stop the washer and disconnect power. People are now reporting the ability to clear the skies of chemtrails by use of the mind alone to obtain assistance from unseen helpers (Sylphs and others) and do the job for you based on your focused intention. They'll tell you it's too complicated, then in the same breath "guide" you to their service department. If the transmission pulley will not turn in one or both directions, the transmission needs to be replaced.
See section 5-13.If the transmission pulley turns fairly easily by hand, but the clutch drum is turning slowly or not at all under motor power, the clutch may be bad. I first posted an article in 2002 by Rich Work about using the mind and the the power of prayer to disperse chemtrails, and now we see this ability coming into reality with many people.
If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself, and you find that you're unable to, they may be the best place to look for service. Usually you will hear the motor buzzing as it tries to start, then dropping out on the overload. On some models, you will also need the lot number to get the right part, so if there is one on the nameplate, write that down, too.2-3 TOOLS (Figure 2-A)Most of the tools that you might need are shown below.
Check as described in section 5-12. 6) If the washer spins but does not agitate, check the agitator splines. Section 5-5. 7) If you have a two-speed machine and the slow (gentle) speed is not working, the clutch solenoid may not be working. Read these articles to understand what Sylphs are, what orgone generators are, and the difference between a DOR atmosphere and an OR atmosphere.
An inexpensive one will suffice, as long as it has both "AC Voltage" and "Resistance" (i.e. We are talking about nothing less than the demise of the chemtrail spraying operations! See section 5-11. If the machine makes a squeaking noise, especially during the spin cycle, the snubbers are probably worn out. Chemtrails cannot exist in the presence of these giant air elementals and are they being destroyed as rapidly as they are being sprayed out of spew planes. This is especially true if the machine has difficulty balancing during spin, even after you redistribute the clothes.
Replace the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14.5-4 PUMP AND PUMP COUPLINGA vast majority of GE-built washers use the pump shown in figure GE-4.
All of the information posted below is interesting and informative, but it is now HISTORY.


We are winning the battle against chemtrails and defeating the satanic traitors at their own game.
Spread the word: DEPLOY ORGONE GENERATORS IN YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD and you too will be free of chemtrail laden skies!
Disconnect the pump coupling at the TOP end, then the remove the three pump mounting screws. I have seen the evidence here in southern California and have read of similar reports from different regions of America.
Read the articles below for an historical overview of chemtrails and the reasons for their deployment, but don't dwell on the negative aspects of this story because things are beginning to look up and we have good reason for optimism! Get involved with making or obtaining orgone generators in your immediate environment and be part of the 'hit team' bringing down this Luciferian inspired genocide operation. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. Remember the rule in section 2-1; while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair.
Then cut out the little piece of plastic in the center of the hub with a knife; this will expose the top of the agitator shaft.
You will only need to be able to set the VOM onto the right scale, touch the test leads to the right place and read the meter.In using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for our purposes, the two test leads are always plugged into the "+" and "-" holes on the VOM. There are locking tabs that you must twist to remove the larger agitator from the smaller one. Once the screw is removed, the "handwash" agitator should lift out easily. It's derived from the word "continuous." In an electrical circuit, electricity has to flow from a power source back to that power source.
The fourth article describes a metaphysical method to destroy chemtrails that could work better than the physical method if employed by enough people and practiced correctly. If you need to remove it, it is simply clamped to the transmission top and to a lip on the tub by two big round clamps. Len Horowitz's latest book (Death in the Air) on the chemtrail spraying program describing its sinister goals, It's a valuable resource to have in your library. If it has simply shaken loose and not torn, you can just clamp the old one back in place, but you'd better check the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14 to try to find out why it shook loose in the first place.
It should peg the meter all the way on the right side of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" or "ohms" scale.
If the meter does not read zero ohms, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero.
If the timer dial prevents you from removing the timer, pull off the spring clip from behind the timer knob as shown in figure GE-10. Deploying orgone generators in your immediate environment is an easy, safe, and highly effective way to mitigate chemtrails in your area.
If the ignitor's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something.
The other design is known as a "clamshell" timer because of the curved shape of its plastic housing. You can touch the ends of the wires and test leads with your hands if necessary to get better contact.
If your timer is defective, take it to your parts dealer and ask for a rebuilt.5-8 LID SWITCHThe lid switch is located beneath the cabinet top, towards the right rear of the washer. If there is GOOD continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scale and steady on a reading. Test with an ohmmeter and replace if defective.5-9 WATER LEVEL SWITCHThe water level switch is located beneath the console. This is the resistance reading and it doesn't concern us; we only care that we show good continuity. GE washers used several different wiring schemes, so refer to section 2-6(b) and compare with figure GE-11 to determine which terminals to test. If you do not, the switch is bad. 2-4(c) AMMETERSAmmeters are a little bit more complex to explain without going into a lot of electrical theory.
If you own an ammeter, you probably already know how to use it. If you don't, don't get one. If it has no continuity, replace by removing the screw on the underside of the coil. I do not recommend the novice trying to rebuild a two-speed clutch. To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the current going through any other components) and see if there's any current flow. To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do).
To service the single-speed clutch, first remove power from the washer and remove the back panel. If the meter shows any reading at all, something in the oven is using power.2-5 WIRING DIAGRAMSometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something. However, note that the person who is posting this information does not recognize that many of the photos show Sylphs neutralizing chemtrails, rather than government technology directed at harming the public.
The symbols used to represent each component are pretty universal. Wire colors are abbreviated and shown next to each wire. With the exception of the EDB petroleum aerosol rings seen around the sun, the majority of photos which reveal a "rainbow" effect are in fact demonstrating the presence of Sylphs who are transmuting the chemtrails into less harmful substances. If you're not sure if the shoes can be re-used, ask your appliance parts dealer, or simply replace them. Other Sylph photos show a large heart-shaped "hole" in the cloud cover which the web master assumes is government technology, but it is not negative technology.
GR or GN are green, GY is gray.A wire color with a dash or a slash means --- with a --- stripe. In some wiring diagrams, wiring and switches inside a timer or other switchblocks are drawn with lines that are thicker than the rest of the wiring. The small white circles all over the diagram are terminals.
These are places where you can disconnect the wire from the component for testing purposes. As you look at the back of the machine, you will find the relay towards the upper left side of the machine. If two wires cross on the diagram without a black dot, they are not connected. Switches may be numbered or lettered.
Usually the terminals on the outside of the timer or switch are stamped or printed with markings that you will see on the wiring diagram. To test a switch, mark and disconnect all the wires. You should now see good continuity. If you do not get the above readings, replace the relay.
For example, in figure 2-F, if you want to test the door switch, take power off the machine, disconnect the wires from it and connect one test lead to COM and one to NC. If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good. Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit. You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet back TO the wall outlet.
Slide the transmission towards the right rear of the washer, and reach under the transmission to make sure the drive belt has disengaged from it.
Rebuilt GE transmissions are a standard item at most parts stores, and they are not terribly expensive. In this simplified circuit diagram, notice that only the heating elements operate on 220 volts.
Locate the right rear bolt loosely in its hole, then the left front bolt, then the other four. Install the boot, basket, and agitator. As a final step, remove the back from the washer and make sure the belt is seated properly.5-14 SNUBBER BLOCKSThere are eight friction pads, commonly known as snubber blocks, which help to prevent vibration during the spin cycle. Since the locking mechanism is interlocked with the heating circuit, the oven will not reach cleaning temperature either.Let's start at the lock motor and find out which switches feed electricity to it.
Tracing the other lock motor lead, we first end up at the "C" terminal of the 4-position selector switch.
Looking at the switch for the chart, the "C" to "LM" contacts are closed when the "clean" button is depressed on the switch. Power then leaves the thermostat through the "5" terminal, so we need to check for continuity between terminals "5" and "6" of the thermostat. Since it is a thermostatic switch, only heat will open the switch, so we only need to test it for continuity. They are shown in the diagram in their "normal state." So continuing with our circuit, if the locking motor is not turning, you need to check switch "B" for continuity between the "COM" and "NC" terminals.
If there is no continuity, it might mean the switch is bad. It might also mean that the switch was not returned to its "normal" state the last time it was activated!You need to examine the switch carefully to determine what the problem is. If the locking motor stopped turning before the switch unlocked, you've got other problems. You will need to trace other circuits in the diagram to figure out what. From the "COM" terminal of switch "B," the circuit goes back through the door switch to L1. There is a small inspection hole (figure GE-4) in the pump body that weeps water when the pump's internal seal is leaking.


The door switch feeds several other oven circuits, too, so unless there's something else not working, we can eliminate that as the problem. The door must be closed to close the switch that feeds electricity to the thermostats and heating circuit.To check for a wire break, you would pull each end of a wire off the component and test for continuity through the wire.
You may need to use jumpers to extend or even bypass the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine.
It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is - there is no magic way. It may prove to be a temporary repair, but you can always do it again, and it's cheaper than trashing the washer. An ammeter is a safer way to test energized circuits if you have one, especially testing 220 volt circuits.
Occasionally, if the component is inexpensive enough, it's easier to just replace it and see if that solves the problem. Following is a primer on how to test each individual component you might find in any given oven. Take all wires off the component and test continuity across it as described in section 2-4(b). Switches should show good continuity when closed and no continuity when open. NO means "normally open" and with the switch at rest, you will see no continuity through it. SELECTOR SWITCHBLOCKS A selector switchblock, located in the control panel, is a group of switches all molded into one housing.
In your oven, a switchblock might be used to allow you to choose a cooktop heat setting, for example, or a cleaning cycle instead of a baking cycle. You must look at the wiring diagram to see which of the terminals will be connected when the internal switches are closed. Keep in mind, however, that you must also know which of the internal switches close when an external button is pressed. When you press one button on the switchblock, several of the switches inside may close at once.To test a switchblock, in addition to the wiring diagram, you must have a chart that gives you this info. Usually this is a part of the wiring diagram. Using the diagram and chart in figure 2-J, lets say we want to test contacts "T1" to "FM" for proper operation.
We see that with the "clean" button pressed, these contacts inside the switchblock should be closed. Although error (fault) codes for most major brands may be found in Chapter 7, usually diagnosis consists of simply replacing circuit components until you find the bad one. Usually the problem turns out to be a bad oven sensor, stuck or defective keypad, ERC (clock) unit or a circuit board. These can be tested and rebuilt or replaced as described in this chapter.2-6 (c) THERMOSTATIC CONTROLSA thermostat is simply a switch or a gas valve that opens and closes according to the temperature it senses. If there is an automatic oven cycle, main control thermostats must also be wired through the timer. And if there is a cleaning cycle, they must be either bypassed or adjusted for the higher temperatures of that cycle.
That's where you start to get dual-control thermostats, thermostats with twelve leads, and other complexities.
Some even control two levels of the same pilot. Main control thermostats are about the most expensive commonly-replaced parts in an oven. It should be the last thing you conclude, after you have checked out everything else in the system.The liquid inside the bulb and capillary of an oven thermostat is usually a mercury or sodium compound or some other such nasty and dangerous stuff. So when you replace an oven thermostat, do not cut open the capillary or bulb, and dispose of the old thermostat properly. The definition of "properly" varies between jurisdictions, but check with your appliance parts dealer or local fire department hazardous materials professionals.ADJUSTING THERMOSTATS The oven is adjusted by a small adjusting screw in the center of the oven thermostat valve stem.
In other words, if you set the thermostat at 350 degrees, you want the heating system to cycle on if the temperature is below 340 degrees, and off when the temperature reaches about 360 degrees. With nothing else in the oven, place it in the middle of the oven, where you can see it through the oven door glass. The important thing to remember about clocks in an oven unit are that often the thermostat controls are first wired through the timer. Also, if you are troubleshooting a no heat complaint in an oven with an automatic cycle, the first step is always to check the timer controls. The woman who greeted me was the ultimate Susie homemaker; everything was spotless in HER kitchen.
Including the oven, which looked new, but this gal swore she'd owned it since it was new 35 years before, and by golly she knew it inside and out and didn't know why two ovens out of three suddenly didn't work. You must have a wiring diagram to determine which terminals are connected when a switch inside the timer closes.
Put a resistance meter across those terminals and advance the clock to determine if the switch is opening and closing.
Joe Burton has been aggressively investigating and reporting on this story from early on. If the clock motor doesn't run or the switches don't open and close as they are supposed to, replace the timer.
Apparently he had been too aggressive, because his house had been targeted for direct spraying by low flying, unmarked aircraft.A  In a story postedA  Feb. 15, 1999, Joe reports the physical symptoms that his family and his pet have been experiencing from the sprayings.
Joe believes that many of these military tankers responsible for the sprayings are remote controlled aircraft, but Al Cuppet (6 years with the US Joint Chiefs of Staff) has told radio talk show hostA  Jeff Rense during interviews on June 1, 1999, May 16, 1999, and May 7, 1999 felt that many of these tanker planes were more likely being flown by foreign pilots, possibly Chinese or Russian.
If it has simply shaken loose and not torn, you can just clamp the old one back in place, but you'd better check the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14 to try to find out why it shook loose in the first place. If there are any special wiring changes, they will be explained in instructions that come with the new timer. Clocks and timers can usually be rebuilt. Ask your appliance parts dealer for details.2-6 (e) ELECTRIC HEATERS AND IGNITORSElectric heater elements and ignitors are tested by measuring continuity across them as described in section 2-5(b). Replace heater elements if they show no continuity.2-6 (f) RELAYSHeating elements use a lot of electricity compared to other electrical components. The switches that control them sometimes need to be built bigger than other kinds of switches, with more capacity to carry more electricity. The switches involved in running a heater or ignitor can be too big to conveniently put inside the control console or timer. His reports are titled Contrail Spraying of Cities is RealA  Part 1 , Part II, and Part IIIA  These articles chronicle Ken's apprehension and dismay at the discovery that the United States government was brazenly spraying the skies of southern Texas on April 9, 1999 with Chemtrails. Besides that, there are safety considerations involved in having you touch a switch that carries that much electricity directly, with your finger. The way they solve that problem is to make a secondary switch. A little switch activates an electromagnet, which closes a big switch that carries the heavier current load.
In June, a report from Florida said that sprayings had been going on for weeks over the Ft Lauderdale andA  Jacksonville areas, including military bases.
Some people have gotten very ill and the symptoms seem to keep returning after a short period of improvement.
It's possible that some of these sprayings might contain special bioengineered pathogens designed to affect only certain racial groups. In other words, a secondA  substance might be required (aerial spraying or substances added to the water supplyA  for example) to bring out the virulent phase of the pathogen, but of course this is only speculation. Rick Malinowski's long and detailed article also suggest the notion of a 2 or 3 part piggy back element to the chemtrail sprayings. He has been interviewed many times on the Art Bell Radio show to discuss the chemtrails story and has many excellent articles and Photos posted at his own web site as well as other locations including-Jeff Rense's Sightings on the Radio . Thomas has concluded that these sprayings are genocidal in nature and are intended to reduce or weaken the general population.
In a November '99 interview with Art Bell, Thomas also voiced the idea that there might be a mind control element to the most recent spraying, since many people are reporting mental confusion and depression following recent sprayings. Thomas has reminded radio listeners that the government has had a long history of exposing the public to biological pathogens without their knowledge or consent. Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 3) If this manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!!
If you're not sure if the shoes can be re-used, ask your appliance parts dealer, or simply replace them.
Most people would like to believe that, but the evidence is too strong in the opposite direction. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good. If they genuinely try to help you fix it yourself, and you find that you're unable to, they may be the best place to look for service. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. If the ignitor's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something.



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